Johan Ku AW20 

“It’s all about knit”, that was the theme for Taipei born designer, Johan Ku’s AW20 collection. And it really was, all about knit.

Holly Brookes-Smith

Held at Bloomsbury House in London’s Holborn, Ku’s catwalk was a show of subtle tones and muted colours, a choice the designer was especially mindful of, wanting the attention instead to be on the intriguing silhouettes. The final look was an oversized but unconventional jumper, thick yarn was used to create a cream knitted lattice, with asymmetrical hem and sleeves.

Ku specialises in knitwear, as can be seen in each of his collections, but for this collection he wanted to see how he could develop his ideas. Acknowledging that knitwear is his signature, Ku was conscious to explore it further in his latest collection. “When I create work, I want to see what I can do that is more than just knitwear.” Ku’s AW20 collection still heavily featured knitted scarves, polo necks and jumpers but the knitwear was also seen in a different medium, printed onto leggings, jackets and trousers, presenting us with a 2D approach to the chunky knit. The layering and mix of textures within the styling gave each look a striking structure.

The models were both male and female, but this carried little relevance to the clothes. Ku described it to me after the show as “genderless”, knitwear itself is unisex with male models in sheer black shirts and printed legings and women in oversized jackets and trench coats. Allowing the focus of the unisex collection to be on the experimantal designs and shapes created by Ku.

“London is where I always want to do my shows, I need to hear the voice from London and see if they love it or hate it.” It will be interesting to see where Ku takes his next collection and how he develops his ability to make knitwear a more engaging subject than you thought it could be. “Keep knitting and carry on” was upon the shirts of some models, so hopefully that’s the plan.


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