For fashion month’s next stop, we go to Florence for Pitti Uomo, it was an interesting transition from the London fashion week with its incredibly modern and forward-thinking designs. From a street style perspective, we saw lots of well fitted suits and amazing tailoring on the street of Florence. The shows echoed much of what we saw in London, luxury take on outwear, 90’s inspired looks, and an emergence of gender neutral designs.
This year’s Pitti Uomo guest designer was Glenn Martens of Y/Project. His streetwear meets high fashion design aesthetic really came through in this collection but in a more sophisticated and evolved collection. Coming off of a publicity high for his very instagramable and paradoxical thigh high Uggs. This collaboration really put the brand on the map for a further thing and comical fashion aesthetic. Another highlight was the forwarding thinking usefulness of the clothes, in past collections the designer has focused on creating clothes in a uniform sizing, this season he expanded inviting the user of the clothes to change and adapt them in a personal way. This being embodied by the coat that can be worn in seven ways. His collection also featured a mixture between classic style pieces like the fair isle sweater reimagined in a more couture and street wear mixture, many of the styles seemed inspired from the thrift show rack. This all done in a very artistically and thoughtful way, a very down to earth democratic vibe. This feeling was echoed by the fact that not just members of the fashion world were invited to the show but college students too, further driving home the idea that Y/Project is attempting to bring a more democratic perspective to the fashion world. He also expanded into new product lines with shoes and bags made for men. The square toes Chelsea boots and the crocodile oxfords, with backpacks and fanny packs showcased in nylon and leather. Going with the trend that we saw in many designer’s shows this season of more gender natural and cross gender clothing and accessories.
These are exciting new directions that the brand is taking, it will be exciting to see the future honing and sophistication of the brand as it grows and develops. Its aesthetic and core values of diversity and forward thinking is important in the times we are living in.