Qasimi’s New Era Has Reached Upon, And London Fashion Week Men’s Proved It All

Chidozie Obasi
Editor

From sunset to sunrise, the cyclical nature of life seems boundless and yet each day itself so predictable. It is this idea of daily renewal which forms the basis of Qasimi’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection. Every sun has to set – to rise again.

At a time where human experience seems polarised, Qasimi’s urban nomad feels his tribal connections more strongly than ever. As a result, there are darker undertones at work, but where there is darkness, the universe ensures equilibrium; a ray of light, a sign of hope. The colours of the collection mirror this: intensely rich earth tones (Persian plum, Arabica, scarab) are lifted by warming hues (myrrh, turmeric). These are in turn cooled down and cemented by grey, black and off-white (asphalt, obsidian, marble).

 

As opposed to previous seasons, the silhouette is distinctly closer to the body, marking an evolution in the nomad’s style. Relaxed tailoring has become slightly more cinched, softened by deep velvets evoking rich furnishings, whilst street components have been refined using more elevated materials and deemed detailing. The notion of a nomad as part of a tribe is explored through crafted knits, whip-stitching and body-ornamented accessories; collected from the possessions of a wandering traveller.

A cross between a military camouflage and the flamed surface of the sun; tortoiseshell helps to further those tribal influences that are in turn contrasted by the slick, concrete surface of the city: the past confronting its future. The second print – that of a check with a grainy, almost filmic quality – is like a windowed tower covered in smog; blurred and almost indiscernible.

A season of paradoxes, transparent, wispy printed georgettes and see-through fabrics are contrasted by heavier cashwool and bouclés. Billowing materials are juxtaposed with stiff coated felts. Matte is pitched against shine. As a result, the collection aims to hold its viewer, mimicking poised on a knife’s edge between reality and obscurity. Removable badges of military influence bear embroidered symbols and texts: a sun derived from Sharjah’s etymology; ‘Rising Sun’, a coiled serpent indicating eternity and endurance, and finally the words ‘Renewal, Rebirth, Immortality’ – a pledge to endeavour to maintain Khalid Al Qasimi’s legacy.

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